Ultimate Guide to Cleaning and Maintaining Your Caravan

What’s the best way to keep your beloved tourer spic and span, and what are the recommended products to achieve it? This cleaning guide tells you the best ways to clean your caravan or motorhome, with minimum effort!

Keeping your pride-and-joy caravan or motorhome clean and shiny, not only makes it a nicer place to be (and be seen).

It’ll also pay for itself in the long run. A well-maintained and beautiful vacation vehicle will always make more money than a neglected one when you sell it.

Caravans are much bigger than cars, and take longer to wash and shine. But don’t worry, your time and elbow grease will be worth it.

I like to keep my tow car and the leisure vehicles I use as clean as possible (usually because I’ll be photographing them at some point), but I also want to make that job as easy as possible.

This blog is designed to help you do just that. Let’s start with the exterior panels.

Cleaning a caravan’s exterior

That huge expanse of white or silver panelling can be quite daunting, and that’s before you remember there’s the roof to do too!

But don’t let it overwhelm you, recruit some help, or break the job down into manageable chunks and do it over several weekends.

There’s a debate to rival the Brexit discourse, as to whether you should wash a caravan top-down or bottom up. I’m firmly in the top-down camp, for two reasons.

If you start at the top, the lower parts of the caravan will already have been soaked and ‘sudded’ for some time before you get to them, so any black streaks and stubborn dirt and grime should have been softened.

Also, working top-down leaves clean surfaces behind, while working bottom-up sees dirty water streaming over the areas you’ve just cleaned. Seems like common sense to me, but each to their own.

Ideally, clean your caravan on a cool or moderately warm, dry day. This will prevent the cleaning solutions from drying out before you have a chance to rub them in and wash them off, which creates drying streaks. On hot, sunny days, try to wash your leisure vehicle in the shade, and do it early or late as temperatures are cooler.

Start by rinsing the surfaces you’re cleaning with cold water, a section at a time. Use a hose or watering can, or even a garden sprayer if the dirt is light.

Cleaning a caravan roof

If you start with the roof, you may be surprised how grimy it is, especially around rooflights and vents, where dirt gathers. As the roof is flat, use a lot of fresh water to move the dirty water off the roof as you clean. Don’t rub it into the roof, which will make small scratches.

You’ll need a step ladder or ladder leaned against the top edge of the van. Place a soft cloth between ladder and van to prevent dints or scratches. If you use a stepladder, make sure it is steady. You don’t want to ding the side of your tourer if you lose you balance. I invested in a Henchman stepladder with a wide base, especially for this purpose.

So, wet the roof and, if you prefer not to walk on it (like me), use a long-handled soft brush to reach into the middle, which could be four feet away. Give the entire roof area a robust wash-down with a high-quality detergent. Where the grime or algae is more ingrained around roof furniture, allow plenty of time for softening, before you get stuck in.

If your van’s parked under trees or on a bird ‘flightpath’, your caravan roof may be a little harder to clean, but it’s essential you get both contaminants off, as they can damage the paintwork if left.

Once you’ve got as much dirt and grime of as possible, rinse the roof down well. Then, after using a squeegee and cloth to dry it off, if you’ve got the energy, consider applying a layer of protective polish or ceramic/silicon protectant. This will make future roof cleaning easier.

If your skylights are dirty, take the time to wash them down, then apply silicone lubricant to the rubber seals. These rubber seals are constantly bombarded by the damaging UV rays in the sunlight, so it’s worth looking after them.

UV rays make the rubber weaker by speeding up a chemical reaction that makes it oxidise faster on the seal’s surface. This causes it to lose its mechanical strength, dry out, and crack.

Roof-mounted solar panels quickly lose their power if they get dirty. So, wash the panel surface carefully while you’re up there.

Finally, before you head back to terra firma, consider giving your awning rail a thorough clean. The narrow channel is perfect for trapping dirt and grime, which easily transfers to your awning. Start by washing it with plenty of soapy water, taking the time to get into the crevice along the top of the rail.

At this point, also consider taking a small piece of rag about 3in (75mm) square, roll it up and knot it in the middle with some strong string or cord. This creates a sort of ‘butterfly’ which you can feed into the awning rail and pull through, cleaning the inner channel of the rail as you go.

After one pass, rinse the rag material out, and run it through again in the opposite direction. You’ll be amazed what comes out! I know a few dedicated DIYers who like to silicone spray the rail channel to make it easier to pull the awning cord through! I’m not quite that diligent!

Cleaning caravan side panels

With the roof looking spic‘n’span, it’s time to move onto the side panels.
Again, ensure they’re thoroughly soaked and rinsed before you start with a cloth, brush or sponge. This removes the worst of the dirt and softens the rest.

It’s generally at this point that you’ll meet the bane of every caravanner’s life, the black streak. However, before you deal with those, you’ll notice that they are usually over-sprayed with everyday grime and traffic film. Luckily, this tends to be somewhat easier to remove with plenty of water, a good-quality caravan cleaner or shampoo and a sponge.

As tempting as it is, don’t use a high-powered pressure washer to clean you caravan, at least not at close range. The jet’s power is strong enough to break window seals and caravan decals. It could even loosen vents and the pop-open covers for your water inlet and outside barbecue point.

To be honest, I have used a jet-washer to clean a caravan in the past, but only from about ten feet away, which meant the power was dissipated and the spray very dispersed. Even then I kept it away from window seals.

So, soak the side of the caravan, or perhaps a third or half of it on a warmer day, then use a sponge or mitt and a bucket of soapy clean water to get the superficial dirt off the side panels. After rinsing it down, you’ll likely be left with those resilient black streaks, which will need some special treatment.

These black stripes usually track down the sides of the caravan from the windows, awning rails, and grab handles, etc. Not only are they unsightly, but they’re often very ingrained and can be resistant to all but the strongest cleaning products…and a large dollop of elbow-grease.

In a test of six products, all performed pretty well, but one stood out as the clear winner, simply because it took much less effort to remove the streaking. That product was Muc-Off Caravan & Motorhome Cleaner, which came in a one-litre spray bottle, but can also be bought in five-litre bulk canisters.

I spray it on, leave it for a minute, then give it a vigorous wipe, and the black streaks are gone. Other cleaning products, even bespoke Black Streak Removers, didn’t make the job quite as easy.

With the offending stripes removed, give the panel a final rinse, then dry it off with a soft, lint-free cloth. Modern microfibre cloths are excellent for this purpose.

Your caravan side panel will now be gleaming, but the dedicated neat-freak can go a stage further and buff the panel with a specialist polish. This won’t only improve the shine, but it will add a layer of protection and make the next wash that bit easier. I’d like to say it prevents future black streaking, but, in my experience, those little blighters will be back, albeit perhaps a bit easier to remove.

The best approach to black streaking is prevention, and that means being extra diligent in cleaning the awning rail and around windows, handles, lockers, vents, cowls and covers, where grime can build up, then run down the side of the caravan. Bespoke cleaning brushes are available for this purpose, but a toothbrush can often do just as good a job. The more dirt and muck you can remove from around these ‘appendages’ the less streaking you’ll see.

Decal cleaning

Take care cleaning around caravan decals and graphics. Don’t use harsh chemicals as they can cause fading or discolouration, and be careful that you don’t clean them so vigorously that the decals start to separate.

Use a soft cloth or brush to clean them with plenty of soapy water. Alternatively, consider using Erase Away foam pads which are non-abrasive, don’t contain chemicals, and are ideal for getting into nooks and crannies. A pack of 12 pads costs around £20 on Amazon.

Chalky fibreglass

On older caravans, the fibreglass panels can dry out and become quite chalky or dusty, due to oxidation. If this occurs, the best treatment depends on the level of oxidation. A quick polish will remedy the dry, dusty look, but only temporarily.

For heavier oxidation (which looks very flat and dusty), and a more enduring result, consider ‘cutting’ the surface back with a cutting compound, such as Meguiar’s Ultimate Compound (£13.99 for 450ml).

A rotary buffer with a wool pad will speed up the process. Wipe the residue away with isopropyl or a wax remover, then, if the chalkiness is gone, buff the area with a good-quality wax polish.

Cleaning windows

Take care when cleaning your windows that you don’t create swirling and micro-scratches, by rubbing any microscopic grit and grime on your sponge into the plastic surface of the windows.

One way to avoid this is by using the double-bucket system. This involves having two buckets, one with your water and detergent solution and another with plain water. The latter is for rinsing your wash-mitt or sponge before applying another sponge full of cleaner to the van.

Dedicated polyplastic/acrylic window cleaning solutions are available from the likes of Autoglym, Renovo and Nigrin.

If your windows are already scratched, try Fenwicks’ Windowize Scratch Remover to minimise or eradicate them.

Cleaning your caravan’s A-frame

Your tourer’s hitchhead and A-frame take the brunt of the grime and filth thrown up by the towcar, or sucked in by its vortices.

Clean the entire area with a good-quality detergent and degreasant if required, and consider relubricating the moving parts (hitch handle, handbrake, jockey wheel and breakaway cable) afterwards.

Cleaning motormovers

Motormover units are positioned lowdown near the wheels, so inevitably get sprayed with road muck and grime. Keep them clean with regular wash downs, especially if you tour in winter on gritted roads.

Clean the nooks and crannies with a small brush, and consider oiling the moving parts by spraying them with a lubricant like WD40.

The same treatment applies to your corner steadies.

Cleaning your towball

Use a wire brush or piece of wet-and-dry/glasspaper to remove any rust or contamination from your car’s towball. You really don’t want any contaminants transferring to the friction pads inside your AL-KO stabiliser hitch head, as this will make it less effective and can cause annoying squealing.

A towball cover will prevent the worst oxidation, but, if you coat it in a preserving lubricant in between tours, you must be sure to remove all traces of the oil or grease before you hitch the caravan up again.

Tyre dressings

Finishing off you caravan-cleaning regime by dressing the tyres will not only make it look much better, it will preserve the tyres and minimise any degradation caused by the UV rays in sunlight. I use Meguiar’s Tire Gel (£12.99) and apply it with a rag.

Cleaning your caravan toilet

Clean your caravan toilet with a gentle liquid or foam cleaner like Thetford’s bathroom Cleaner (from £3.95 for 500ml) or Thetford Toilet Bowl Cleaner (£7.50 for 750ml). Both are safe for use on plastic surfaces.

Cleaning a caravan toilet cassette

Always clean and rinse your toilet cassette in between tours, and as often as you can when away. There are dozens of cleaning solutions to choose from, with big names like Thetford and Blue Diamond, supplemented by many cheaper brands you may not have heard of.

Empty your cassette, then rinse it out.

Before replacing it, add 200ml of cleaning fluid and a litre of water to the cassette and give it a good shake, ensuring the fluid coats the entire insides of the cassette.

After emptying that out, I add another small dose of undiluted toilet fluid and swill it all around the cassette interior, before putting it back in its hatch, all disinfected and smelling like a Provençal lavender field on a warm summer’s day!

Cleaning a caravan interior

Regular domestic cleaning products and tools will work just as well inside the caravan as at home, so I wouldn’t invest unnecessary cash in buying ‘specialist’ products just for that purpose. The only exception might be the bathroom cleaner, especially if your van’s loo and basin is plastic rather than porcelain.

The cooker and hob, fridge, upholstery, vinyl flooring and loose-fit carpets can all be cleaned with products from the home.

If you tour for long periods and need to take a vacuum cleaner with you, I’d recommend a (fully-charged) cordless model, which will make the task easier in an enclosed space.

We have a G-Tech Multi Mk2 handheld vacuum cleaner (from £150) which is compact and powerful, and ideal for the job. That said, once home, you can’t beat the extra suction of a corded vacuum, with its more powerful motor, for a really deep clean.

Caravan cleaning products

Autoglym – autoglym.com

Fenwicks – raymondjamescaravans.co.uk
Muc-Off – muc-off.com

Cara Finesse – ebay.co.uk

Aldi – aldi.co.uk (product supply is seasonal)
Meguiar’s – meguiars.co.uk
Paintseal – paintsealdirect.com

Diamondbrite – diamondbrite.co.uk

Thetford – thetford-europe.com
G-Tech – gtech.co.uk
WD40 – wd40.com
Renovo – renovointernational.com

Nigrin – nigrin.com
Henchman step ladders – henchman.co.uk

Caravan cleaning tips

• Don’t cook smelly and greasy food in the caravan

• Post caravan spring clean, consider lubricating all window and door seals with a silicone lubricant, or if you don’t have any, rub them with olive oil.

• While using a caravan cover won’t completely remove the need for washing your caravan, it will minimise the amount of dirt, grime, sap and bird muck on your tourer, and will make cleaning it easier.

• Ceramic paint protectant finishes, like those from Paintseal and Diamondbrite, fill the microscopic pores in you caravan’s paint finish, preventing dirt and grime from getting in. If applied and maintained properly, they will save many hours of caravan scrubbing over the time you own the van.

• Both companies also offer spray-on Teflon upholstery protectants, which can save you a lot of grief and money in the event of a major spillage.

•After washing your caravan, consider giving each lock and hinge a quick squirt of WD40. The spray cans with a thin application tube let you spray the lubricant directly inside the lock mechanism.

• Clean all scraps, crumbs, and other food debris from the caravan before it goes into storage, as this will make it less likely that mice and other hungry rodents are attracted inside. Although small, these little insurgents can cause expensive damage to electrical wiring and upholstery.

• Take car when cleaning on a stepladder that you don’t lean in and scratch the side oif the van with belt buckles, zips or jeans rivets.

• While cleaning the van, take the time to check out the panel joins and sealant for any signs of damage or deterioration. You may be able to pre-empt a water-ingress issue.

• Unless you have a particularly stubborn stain, avoid using abrasive cleaning products and tools. Such products can abrade the protective top-coat on a caravan’s finish.

Understanding Caravan Water Systems: A Comprehensive Guide

Maintaining top-notch water systems in your tourer is essential for your health, safety, and convenience.

Modern touring caravans boast all the latest luxuries you find at home, including practical and effective water systems to deliver hot and cold water, 51 litres on-tap. Literally.

Running and maintaining these systems is simple enough to do, but there are some great devices, and lots of tips and advice, to make it easier and safer.

Let’s start at the very beginning…

Efficient Water Transportation: Understanding Water Carriers and Aquarolls

There are two convenient ways to get water to your tourer.

Most people rely on rolling water carriers, which make it relatively easy to transport a large volume of water from the nearest campsite tap to your pitch.

The name Aquaroll has become synonymous with these water carriers, but, in fact Aquaroll is a brand, and other manufacturers make rolling water carriers of a similar design.

Aquarolls, which is manufactured in Britain by FL Hitchman, come in a 40-litre size (from £41) and have a 10-year warranty. They have two caps, one on the end and one on the side. The one you use may depend on the height of your water inlet on your van.
Aquaroll also made a smaller 29-litre carrier, but, while these are still available online, they don’t appear on the aquaroll.com website.

Leisurewize Waterhog is another popular carrier. These come in a 51-litre size and cost from £45.75.

Caravanning Forums reveal that some people have had issues with the water carrier caps cracking, so carry a spare with them. These are available for around £10 online.

It’s a real eye-opener how much water a family of four uses, and if it’s between 40 and 51-litres, the bigger carrier may be the best bet to minimise trips to the tap.

Water carriers come with a transparent filler pipe which attaches to the campsite tap.
Water carriers like these require a short inlet hose, one end of which connects to the caravan water inlet, while the other is dropped into the water carrier.

The Truma version (£23) relies on an inboard pump in the caravan to extract the water, while the Whale High-Flow Submersible Pump version (£65) has a small anti-air-locking pump built in.
The water system fitted to your caravan will dictate which model you choose.

Water on full-service pitches

For those that use full-service pitches, there are several accessories designed to bring water directly from your pitch tap to the caravan. These come in two designs.

The first attaches to your water carrier beside your tourer and keeps it full to the brim. They use a ball-cock valve to stop the water flow when the carrier is full. You can just buy the ball-cock valve (from £21) from aquaroll.com, or purchase the valve with a 7.5m, food-grade hose attached (from £24.95). Various unbranded valve alternatives are available from as little at £7.29 online.

I opted for the 15m long Truma Ultraflow Waterline (£80), which does away with the need for a water carrier and connects straight to the Truma water inlet on the side of the caravan.

The first time I used it, it kept popping off the caravan inlet. It turned out the water pressure was too high, and when I adjusted the pitch tap, it worked perfectly. As a man, I obviously hadn’t read the instructions, which explained that the system has an inline pressure regulator. Either way, no more runs to the site tap…heaven!

Whale also makes a direct-to-caravan water hook-up called Whale Aquasource (£74.99). This measures 7.5m in length, with a 7.5m extension also available to buy. Aquasource has a built-in pressure regulator.

One possible benefit of the using a water-carrier-compatible system, is that, should a water pipe connection become loose inside the caravan, you won’t be flooded out by a constant flow of water. That said, I’ve never heard of this happening to anyone.

Hassle-Free Hydration: Water Solutions for Full-Service Pitches

An increasing number of luxury caravans now have onboard water tanks, just like motorhomes. These vary in size, typically up to around 40-litres.

The inboard tank has to be filled from an external source, such as an Aquaroll, or direct feed. The process may vary slightly from model to model, but it’ll be something like this. The water goes in via an inlet point on the side of the van, usually marked ‘Direct to Tank’. Inside the tourer, turn the valve to its tank-fill position and ensure the drain valves are closed.

Next, turn on the water pump to fill the internal water tank from the external container. The pump will cut off automatically when the tank is full.

When first using water from the onboard tank, turn on your water pump and open your kitchen tap to ‘bleed air from the system. Start with it in the hot-water position. Initially, it may splutter before settling down to a constant flow. Next, set it to cold water and more air may bleed from the system. The pump will cut out automatically when you turn off the tap. Repeat this procedure with each tap.

Water tanks are often at the end of the caravan. It isn’t or is safe to tow a long distance with a lot of water in the tank. As each litre weights 1kg, the total weight could create a pendulum effect, making the caravan unstable.

Fans of onboard water tanks cite the fact that you can have a small amount of water on-tap while you’re in transit; your water won’t freeze in winter, and should stay cooler on very hot days. In theory, you’re also less likely to run out of water, which is especially useful for off-grid campers.

Of course, most people still only have a 40-litre grey waste tank, which will need to be emptied when full.

Onboard water tanks are relatively easy to retro-fit if you so desire.

Efficient Heating: Managing Hot and Cold Water in Your Caravan

Once inside the caravan pipework, water is directed to the water heater for hot water, or by-passes it and enters the cold-water system.

Whether you have an Alde, Truma or Whale hot water systems, the way they heat the water is largely the same.

Each has a gas burner in a combustion chamber and electric heating elements. Most heaters can be used on gas only, electricity only or, for maximum heat, a combination of the two. The hot flue gases from the combustion chamber are circulated through a heat exchanger, then exit the system via an exhaust vent.

The hot air (Truma) or water (Alde) for the ‘central heating’ travels through adjacent channels and is warmed by a heat exchanger. Meanwhile, both the burner and heat exchanger ducts are surrounded by a 10-litre stainless-steel water jacket.

The water in this space is heated by the unit to temperatures up to 60°C. The Truma Combi 4e heater can raise 10 litres of water from ambient temperature to 60°C in about 20 minutes, on its Boost setting.

When a tap is turned on, a microswitch in the tap or pressure sensor detects the demand for water and the water pump activates, pumping hot or cold water to that tap.

Managing Grey Water: Efficient Waste Disposal Solutions for Your Caravan

Waste water from the sink, basin and shower is known as ‘Grey Waste or grey water’, and drains away from the van through pipes under the floor. These pipes meet at one point (usually with two exits) where you can attach your waste-water container.

Often this container will be emptied and rinsed daily, so it doesn’t become smelly, but scented, anti-bacterial chemicals are available to keep it fragrant!

Numerous wastewater carriers are available. I’d pick one with wheels as they are bigger, so need emptying less often, and are more portable. These include the likes of the 38-litre Wastemaster (£49.50), the Fiamma 23-litre Waste Water Roll (£47) or the 46-litre Leisurewize Wastehog (£60).

Preparing for Storage: Properly Draining Your Caravan Water System

When you put your caravan into storage for more than a few days, it’s a good idea to drain the water systems down. This ensures you’re not drinking or washing in stagnant water next time you use the van, it lessens the likelihood of leaks or freezing and it should maintain your boiler and ancilliaries in better condition.

The process is easy, as, on most tourers, you simply open the two yellow drain valves, which are located close to the boiler. You’ll then see/hear the water draining out on to the ground below.

Keep It Clean: Essential Steps for Caravan Water System Maintenance

To prevent unpleasant bacteria and algae building up in the water system, it makes sense to clean it regularly.

Some frequent caravanners like to pop a water-purifying tablet in the water tank or Aquaroll every now and then, for intermediate cleansing. This reduces the time-consuming, full-on, fill-and-flush cleanse to an annual event.

For the yearly deep-clean, many caravanners swear by Puriclean tablets/powder or Milton Fluid, but there are other tailor-made products, too, like Purisol fluid. Buying in bulk or bigger sizes can save you money, and, as Puriclean powder doesn’t have a sell-by date, it might be the better, cheaper option.

If you use Puriclean, for a 40-litre Aquaroll, you’ll need to fully dissolve nine teaspoons of the powder into a jug of water, mix it up well, then add the solution to a 90%-full water carrier.

Next, attach the water inlet hose to the caravan and drop the end into the Aquaroll.

Now you need to purge the entire system with the Puriclean solution. To do this, turn the pump on, then bleed each tap, one at a time, by opening it and waiting until it stops spluttering. The water coming through should ‘froth’ slightly in the sink or basin, due to the cleaning chemical. With all the taps bled (including the shower), leave the solution in the system for at least an hour.

You’ll still have a large volume of Puriclean solution in your Aquaroll, so you can empty this out into a drain (it’s harmless), or, my preferred option, run most of it through the taps – it feels like better value for money and could clean any internal nooks and crannies where air bubbles might have formed.

When it’s nearly empty, rinse out the Aquaroll and refill it with fresh water. This will be used to purge the Puriclean solution from the pump, heater, pipes and taps.

With the water hose back in the Aquaroll, turn on the cold taps and pump the entire barrel of water through the system. I repeat this operation with the hot tap on.

The system should now be entirely flushed and cleansed.

For cleaning the drain pipes and grey waste carrier consider Fenwicks Waste pipe and Tank Cleaner solution or Thetford’s bespoke grey waste concentrated cleaner.

Expert DIY Tips: Rod Farrendon’s Water System Advice for Off-Grid Caravanning

DIY guru, Rod Farrendon is an avid off-gridder, spending weeks at a time away in his van. Here are some of his top tips for your water system.

• I use a length of snap-on pipe cover to keep my inlet hose straight and the pump at the bottom of the Aquaroll.

• My Ionic showerhead reduces water consumption and makes the water feel softer.

• I mounted my caravan’s onboard water pump on a pad of firm packing foam. It reduces the vibration and drumming noise significantly, and I only had to lengthen the screws by 10mm.

• I also added extra drain taps to the system, as Swift routes the feed to the bathroom up and over the wheel arch, which makes it impossible to fully drain the pipes to the rear of the van.

• I also insulated the pipes in that area, as the wheel arch is just thin ABS, so provides little protection.

• Don’t let your water carrier run dry when using a Whale submersible pump, as the impellor is lubricated by the water and can be damaged if run dry. I switch off the pump as soon as I hear it run dry.

Expert Guidance and Accessories at Raymond James Caravans

In conclusion, maintaining your caravan’s water system is crucial for ensuring a safe and comfortable touring experience. From selecting the right water carriers to properly managing hot and cold water, each aspect of your water system requires attention to detail and regular maintenance.

By following the tips and advice provided, you can keep your system running smoothly and avoid common pitfalls.

For expert guidance and to find the best accessories for your water system, visit Raymond James Caravans. Our experienced team can help you with everything from water tanks to waste management solutions. This will make sure your caravan is ready for any trip. Visit our website or stop by in person to get the support you need.

For more caravan water-systems information

Alde – alde.co.uk

Truma – truma.com

Whale – whale.navico.com
Aquaroll – aquaroll.com
Leisurewize – streetwizeaccessories.com

Essential Tips for Cleaning a Caravan Awning

Keep your caravan ‘extension’ looking great and in top condition with our handy cleaning and maintenance guide

Caravan awnings are vital additions to our touring lifestyles, delivering supplementary living space and storage, and providing extra insulation when cold-weather touring.

In recent years, the design and materials technology in modern awnings has exploded, and the prices have increased too. A good-quality awning now typically costs from £600 to £3,000, so it makes sense to look after your expensive caravanning accessory, by keeping it clean and ensuring it is fully waterproof and ready for your next touring holiday adventure.

Our guide reveals the techniques and products you should consider to achieve both.

Cleaning a caravan awning

Cleaning a caravan awning is essential to maintain its appearance, keep it serviceable, and prolong its lifespan. Here’s a step-by-step guide on how to clean a caravan awning effectively:

1 Timing is crucial

Awnings should only be stored away when dry, so you’ll need to choose a dry day for your cleaning session. Ideally, you’ll have warm weather with a light breeze, as these conditions will speed up the drying process.

This means you’ll be able to see the results of your endeavours quickly, and get the awning packed away, confident that there is no damaging moisture lurking in the folds.
Start cleaning as early in the day as you can, as this will allow plenty of drying time.

2 Choose a suitable location

Awnings can be big and somewhat awkward to deal with. Even a ‘small’, two-metre porch awning can be cumbersome, so plan your cleaning session well. To work easily, you’ll need an area as big as the ‘footprint’ of the awning, with at least a metre (three feet) of space all around.
Find a level and open space to work in.

3 Spot clean or complete clean?

Okay, are you targeting one or more specific areas of dirt, grease, or grime on your awning, or are you planning a complete spring clean of it?
If it’s the former, you might get away with laying the awning out on the ground, or over a heavy-duty ‘washing line’. I’m talking about a very strong cord or rope, here, as awning material can weigh more than 20kg. A standard washing line won’t cut it, I’m afraid.

Take care if laying the awning out on the ground to clean it, and consider laying it on top of your awning carpet, to keep it as clean as possible.

If you’re giving your awning a total wash-down (and‌ reproofing it afterwards), you’ll be better off erecting it. This could be independent of the caravan, and, while it may take a bit of time, it’ll ease the cleaning process and really accelerate the drying time.

It should take just a few minutes to blow up an air awning, but a bit longer to build a pole awning, which will need four vertical poles, i.e.: including the two that go next to the side of the caravan. Once erected, it makes sense to peg both down with four ground pegs and two or four guy-lines.

4 Remove loose debris

Once erected, start the cleaning process by lightly brushing any loose dirt, leaves, or other debris off the awning fabric with a soft brush or dry cloth. This will help to prevent any abrasive particles from damaging the fabric during cleaning.

5 Prepare the cleaning solution

Next, you need to prep the detergent solution. This may be a pre-mixed, ready-to-spray, mild detergent, or you may need to dilute a concentrate in a bucket of water. Follow the awning manufacturer’s instructions for the correct dilution.

6 Test a Small Area

Before applying the cleaning solution to the entire awning, it’s worth testing it on a small, inconspicuous area to make sure it doesn’t cause discoloration or damage. You may want to leave it for 30 minutes to check for any delayed effects.

7 Pre-treat stubborn marks

Consider pre-treating any grease or dirt marks that look like they may be stubborn with a specialist cleaner or a slightly stronger dilution of the detergent mix. Allow 20-30 mins for the solution to take effect.

8 Clean the awning fabric

Using a soft cleaning brush, mitt, or sponge, gently scrub the awning fabric with the cleaning solution. Start from the top and work your way down. At this point, you can pay extra attention to those particularly badly soiled or stained areas.

9 Rinse thoroughly

Using a hose pipe or a bucket of clean water, rinse the awning thoroughly, removing all traces of the cleaning solution before it dries, and making sure there’s no soapy residue left on the fabric.
In warmer weather, you may want to clean one panel at a time, to limit the risk of the cleaning solution drying on the fabric.
Naturally, all this is much more difficult with the awning laying on the ground.

10 Check for stubborn marks

With the awning washed down, you’ll need to let it dry (at least partially) to see if your efforts have been successful in removing any marks and blemishes.

11 Re-treat any persistent marks

If you find that some marks are still visible, you could retreat those areas with a strong dilution of cleaning fluid, or seek out a stronger detergent such as Ultramar’s Power Cleaner. Use these solutions as instructed and be mindful that you may cause fading of the awning material if you overdo it.

12 Dry the awning

Once you’re satisfied with your cleaning efforts, it’s time to dry the awning.
As mentioned, this is easiest with the awning erected. If it’s laid out on the ground, you may need to lift and rotate it sporadically to make sure all the sides dry out.

On a warm, breezy day, an erected awning should dry out within an hour or two.

Check seams and folds for dryness – you must NOT put the awning away with any wet or damp areas, as this will inevitably cause mildew and mould to grow on it.

13 Roll it up

Once you’re happy that the awning is completely dry, you can dismantle it. Make sure the ground below has also dried out before you do this, and consider collapsing it onto the awning’s carpet for protection.

Now, carefully roll it up, taking care to crease the plastic windows as little as possible. Once it is compact enough, it can go back into its bag.

14 Reproofing your awning (Optional)

Once your awning is clean and dry, you have the option of reproofing the material with a specialist reproofing solution. These come in spray-on and paint-on forms, from a range of manufacturers. You’ll know if this is needed, when your awning shows signs of water not beading on the fabric.

Consider using a water-based solution to proof an awning as it won’t smell as strongly as solvent-based ones, and is better for the environment. The reproofer shouldn’t affect the breathability of any fabrics it’s used on, e.g.: awnings, tents, jackets, etc. Some also provide UV protection for the awning fabric.
Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions for application and coverage.

15 Awning cleaning tips

Don’t use harsh or abrasive cleaners, as they can damage the fabric and the waterproof coating.
Avoid using a pressure washer, as the high-pressure stream can damage the fabric and the seams.
Regular maintenance, including brushing off debris and keeping your awning clean and reproofed, can help to prolong its life.
Try to avoid camping under trees on campsites, due to the damaging tree sap they produce, and the higher risk of bird muck.

16 Awning cleaning materials and accessories

You will need…

A mild detergent or specialist awning cleaning product
A (long-handled) soft brush, mitt, or sponge
A hose or bucket of warm water
Soft, clean cloths or microfibre towels
Awning reproofing solution (optional)

Awning cleaner contacts

Fenwick’s at Raymond James Caravans or in-store

HLS Supplies hlssupplies.co.uk

Ultramar ultramarxl.com

Onechem assured products.co.uk

Fabsil fabsil.com

Essential Caravan Awning Maintenance: Tips and Products from Raymond James Caravans

In wrapping up, it’s paramount to keep your caravan awning in tip-top shape, not only to bolster its longevity but also to maintain its aesthetic appeal.

At Raymond James Caravans, we’re well aware of the significance of proper awning upkeep. We offer an extensive array of products and expert guidance to aid you in this endeavour. Our guide lays out a detailed roadmap for cleaning and maintaining your awning, making sure it’s waterproof and ready for your forthcoming holiday escapades.

For additional tips and counsel on caravan upkeep, as well as to peruse our broad selection of caravanning accessories and cleaning products. Our knowledgeable staff are always prepared to provide you with tailored advice and effective solutions to maintain your caravan and awning in pristine condition.

Regular maintenance isn’t just about enhancing your touring experience; it’s also about making sure the durability of your caravan’s vital appendages.

The author

John Sootheran is a seasoned caravan and motorhome journalist who previously edited Caravan magazine, and now writes for Britain’s best-selling caravan magazine, Practical Caravan, along with Practical Motorhome and the Camping & Caravanning Club magazines. He also works with a number of major caravanning brands.